Start with ball oi damp, wedged clay and press it into rectangular shape; cut %-inch slab at top.

Take candle and notch its base to prevent its sticking to clay; below, it forms hole in clay.

Press candle into center to form candlestick pit.Original ball of clay was 8 inches in diameter.

Score a path about one-quarter inch wide between the pellets, paint it with slip, and weld a small coil, one-quarter inch thick, all around.Smooth to a square ridge with tools.The box is now complete and ready to be decorated.

Constructing this simple box has cer­tainly opened your eyes to the many other objects you will be able to make by the slab method.Any manner of flat-sided ceramic pieces can be made just as han­dily: ash trays, cigarette boxes, vases, cheese dishes, etc.The shapes need not be square.Matter of fact, the square is gen­erally considered to be rather a dull proportion, esthetically speaking.The rec­tangle is far more interesting to the eye.When you begin making other slab-constructed items, you may find it helpful to use paper patterns as a guide for cutting out the clay pieces to insure correct size and fit.

Curved or round forms can also be con­structed with slabs, but it is advisable to make such forms by the coil method be­cause it is a freer method and the results will probably look less mechanical.If slab construction is used to make these forms, the process is similar to that for making flat-sided objects.The only difference is that the bottom is circular or organic in shape and the slab for the side is made of one continuous piece and fitted to conform with the curve of the bottom.As with flat-sided pieces, the sides may be vertical or made to taper or flare as desired.

Coil Construction

The coil method of construction is best understood by building a simple bowl.The word "build" is used advisably, for that is exactly what you do when you use the coil method—build up an object by placing clay coils on top of one another.

Mark where candlestick sides will be cut.Using sharp knife make angled cuts inward from the top.

Sides angle in toward base for reasons of appear­ance.Here, last side is cut from damp clay slab.

Bevel the edges to prevent chipping; this should be done after clay has dried to leather-hardness.

Now smooth all surfaces of the piece with a damp sponge.Be sure to wipe away all tool markings.

Compare rough-cut candlestick with one below it.Finishing touches will be added; note side angle.

Above, the finished candlestick, ready to be dec­orated, dried, glazed and aired—and then used.

The bowl base may be made with a round slab, three-eighths inch in thickness and two inches in diameter.Place this circular slab on a plaster bat.Then, on a piece of oilcloth placed downside up on your work-table, roll a piece of clay with your hands into a long even coil, long enough to fit around the circumference of the base.The coil should be a little thicker than the walls of the bowl are to be.

Cut the ends of the coil on the diagonal and weave them to­gether to form a complete circle.The ends may be joined with slip, too.But make certain they are cut on the bias before joining them.This prevents lumps at the point of juncture and also presents a larger surface for adhesion.Work the coil into the base with a wood tool or your thumb.Start about halfway up the coil and draw the clay gently but firmly into the base.So long as the clay is soft and pliable it is easy to weld.Continue build­ing up the walls of the bowl by placing coil upon coil, making each succeeding coil a larger circle.

You can, if you wish, form the base with a coil instead of a slab.This is done by holding down one end of the coil firmly to your work surface while winding the bal­ance of the coil in concentric circles around the end you are holding in position.Should cracks appear in the winding it indicates the clay was not properly wedged or that it is too dry.When the coil base is finished, you will have a hook-rug effect.Now you can attach the next coil, the same as you did to the slab base.Continue building up coil layers, joining each on top and bottom with slip.

Make your bowl about three inches high, with a diameter across the top of approximately four inches.As you attain more skill, you will be able to start with a coil base and continue winding right up to the top of the bowl, adding new coil lengths as they are needed, using slip the way a builder uses mortar.

If you are constructing a large piece, it may be necessary to halt about halfway up the wall and allow the clay to dry slightly, to a leathery consistency, in order to give it sufficient strength to support the weight of additional coils.In such a case, you should thoroughly moisten the point at which you commence your next step of the project.Otherwise the leather-hard clay will not adhere readily to the damper new clay coil.This may be done by plac­ing a moist cloth on the top coil.

When constructing a symmetrical piece, say a vase or pitcher, it is generally advis­able first to cut out a cardboard template.This will permit you to make periodic checks on the symmetry of the piece as you go along.

As you work, you should add a little water to your fingertips occasionally.It is very tempting to use too much water because water smooths the clay so easily.But do not get the clay too moist, or the vessel may collapse.

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